Rubicon Express Jeep Lift Kit Install

Rubicon Express has long been synonymous with Jeep lifts, and that still continues today. A few years back, all the control arms bushings were changed to a Poly PT-meg high-performance material, making them far more durable than previous-generation bushings. Along with this change, a whole new array of systems has been added, with coil-over conversions, new 4-link long-arm systems that replaced the rear radius arm kits for JKs, along with all their great Jeep systems stretching back to CJs and YJs with leaf springs. I’ve built a few rigs with Rubicon Express parts stretching back to my CJ7 on leaf springs back in 1998, and the long arm/YJ leaf spring over conversion I ran in my last TJ, so I’m pretty familiar with the durability of their lift systems.

This time around, I ordered a pretty typical lift system from Rubicon Express. A TJ 4.5-inch Super-Flex Short Arm lift kit. Typically they retail at a little more than $2,000.00. Many Jeep owners can build towards a system like this when on a budget easily, and many of the parts can also be reused if upgrading in the future to a long arm system, so it fits right in the middle of the pack and offers a lot of features.

Both upper and lower arms come with Super-Flex joints at one end. To stop the arms from over-rotating, and to allow the suspension to suck up vibrations and hard shocks to the system, the other end uses a flexible fixed bushing. The short arm lift kits come in 3.5- and 4.5-in. lift heights, while Rubicon long arm kits come in 3.5-, 4.5- and 5.5-in. lift heights (all use the same spring rates). On both kits, the upper arms are adjustable. In the rear, this accommodates adjusting the pinion angle for proper driveshaft angles, and in the front, offers caster adjustment to properly track down the road. The kit also comes with a front adjust track bar, and while a relocation bracket comes for the rear, I’d suggest upgrading to an adjustable rear track bar as well. All of the taller kits come with new stainless braided front brake lines, all new coils, bump stop spacers and other small parts to complete the lift. We also chose the monotube shocks designated for our lift height.

All of the parts looked to be up to the high standards set in the past, the powder coating was excellent and the Super-Flex joints nice and snug. The lift came with all required fasteners, and everything fit as required, making for a smooth install. If we ran into one issue, it was finding an alignment shop that was experienced in setting caster and checking proper angles after the fact. In the end, we sent the Jeep to our local 4 Wheel Parts retail store to get it dialed-in properly. As 4 Wheel Parts sells Rubicon Express kits, they knew firsthand how to make the Jeep run its best down the road. Also keep in mind they offer full install capabilities in most, if not all, branches to install your Rubicon Express lift if you’re not up to the task yourself.

I can say these kits are still a great buy for any Jeep enthusiast, and being expandable with other upgrades, a great kit to base your build around.

This full replacement link Super-Flex system comes in 3.5- and 4.5-in. lift. The same quality of springs still come with the kit – we installed the 4.5-in. lift version. All other components are the same between both lift heights. Replacement rear sway bar links and a nice set of sway bar disconnects also come with the kit.

Rubicon Express has long been synonymous with Jeep lifts, and that still continues today. A few years back, all the control arm bushings were changed to a Poly PT-meg high-performance material, making them far more durable than previous generation bushings. Along with this change, a whole new array of systems has been added, with coil-over conversions, new 4-link long arm systems that replaced the rear radius arm kits for JKs, along with all their great Jeep systems stretching back to CJs and YJs with leaf springs. I’ve built a few rigs with Rubicon Express parts stretching back to my CJ7 on leaf springs back in 1998 and the long arm/YJ leaf spring over conversion I ran in my last TJ, so I’m pretty familiar with the durability of their lift systems.

Our build subject is a typical TJ with a hodge-podge of parts making up the basic lift. Spacers under the coils, longer shocks and drop pucks under the skid plate to keep the short driveshafts at happy angles.

Disassembly usually takes longer than installing the new parts on an older Jeep. We will start at the back by loosening all the control arm bolts but not removing them yet (also getting liberal with WD40 on all the bolts a couple of weeks before the install). Having all the bolts loose and the sway bar links removed lets the axle drop further, while keeping it safe to move around under the vehicle to remove the springs.

The stock track bar is retained, and a relocation bracket keeps the axle square once lifted though an adjustable rear track bar, a good upgrade. A couple of holes are drilled into the stock track bar bracket, and the new bracket bolts in place.

The rear bump stops come out of the cup to access the bolt under it, and the cup unbolts. Longer bolts are provided along with a spacer to extended the bump stops for the new lift height. Some grease on the bump stop helps it go back into the cup with ease.

The new links use the PTMEG polyurethane bushing at one end, and a Super-Flex joint at the other. This helps reduce vibration transfer and also stops the links from rolling back and forth, as would be the case if two Super-Flex joints were used. While the stock control arms look pretty weenie, their pressed metal design actually allows the link to twist a certain amount. The Super-Flex joint now takes care of this flex without twisting metal, while allowing the link to be made thicker and more ridged. The lower links are fixed length.

The Super-Flex joints are rebuildable and greaseable – though they all come pre-assembled. Don’t be surprised if they feel very tight – they will flex when they need to.

The PTMEG polyurethane bushing goes to the frame end. Adding anti-seize to the entire bolt will stop the bolt from freezing inside the steel sleeve, and makes it easier to take apart if needed.

The Super-Flex joint goes to the axle end in the rear. Grease the flex joint and add anti-seize to the bolt. Notice the offset of the tube up to the joint. Make sure you install the arms with the tube at the bottom; this allows space for the arms to articulate without hitting the control arm bracket.

The instructions come with lengths to set the adjustable upper arms to start, but once you add the slip yoke eliminator kit and the CV style rear driveshaft, some adjustment may be needed. I found the start measurement to be very close to what we needed.

Pretty straightforward here; leave all the links loose until the coil springs are in their perch. Makes it easier to drop the axle to get the new longer coils in place – just don’t forget to tighten the link bolts up!

Shock relocation brackets are included in the kit for the rear. Without them, the shock could possibly hit the rear axle under full suspension droop, and damage the shock shaft.

New longer sway bar links are not a disconnect type in the rear, and bolt straight into the factory brackets and use the stock sway bar.

Once the coils are in place, the shocks are installed and act as extension straps, holding the coils in place under full droop. I tend to toss the shock boots, as I find they have a habit of holding dirt and water around the shock shaft.

On the front, the bump stop extension goes on the bottom, and a hole is drilled into the spring perch on the axle. While the kit comes with a self-tapping bolt, it’s easier to install if you use a thread tap to make a nice clean hole.

While this shows where the bump stop extension will go, it actually gets bolted in, as the coil gets installed – not before.

Installing the front control arms goes the same as the rear, using a basic length from the instructions to set the upper adjustable control arm length.

To set the front wheel alignment from the factory, cam bolts are used on the front lower control arms, and are retained with the new Rubicon control arms.

Once you swing the coil into place (while holding the bump stop extension in the end of the coil), the bump extension can be bolted in place.

A replacement front track bar is included, and the stock tapered hole in the frame bracket needs to be drilled out to allow for a straight bolt. Below you can see the adjustable Heim joint with the spacers to allow it to flex with the suspension movement.

Removable sway bar links are included and come with studs you can install in the wheelwells to hold the sway bar up out of the way when off-road, to get the most of your new flexy suspension.

The sway bar link assembly is complete and you can see the removable clips on the axle end of the links. They swing up and out of the way and fasten via the supplied retaining studs up above the coil bucket when full flex is desired.

With the new front stainless braided brake lines in place, it’s off to the alignment shop! The shocks are Rubicon’s specifically-valved monotube shocks that work very well with the spring rate they choose for their coil springs. Unlike a long arm conversion, a short arm kit actually has better break-over angle, as the arms are tucked up closer to the frame rather than extended out.

Even with the added weight of a winch and HD bumper, the Jeep sits nice and even, and as you can see with the SYE kit we installed, the spacers were removed from the skid plate for another inch of ground clearance gained back!